Most of what makes a home easier to move around in costs very little and takes an afternoon. This is a room-by-room walkthrough of the changes that make the biggest practical difference, in the order we would do them.

Two notes before you start. First, do the whole walk-through with the person who lives there, not about them, the changes that stick are the ones they agreed to. Second, work in order of how often a room is used. A perfect bathroom and an unlit hallway is a poor trade.

Lighting, everywhere

If you only do one thing, do lighting. It is cheap, requires no construction, and affects every room.

  • A lamp or switch within arm’s reach of the bed, reachable before standing up
  • Motion-sensor night lights along the route from bed to bathroom
  • Light switches at both ends of stairs and hallways
  • Brighter bulbs in stairwells, entryways, and over the kitchen counter
  • Shades or diffusers on bare bulbs, glare is as much of a problem as dimness

Entryway and steps

  • A handrail on at least one side of every exterior step, secured into framing rather than siding
  • A level, well-lit landing large enough to stand on while managing a door, a key, and a bag
  • Non-slip treads on wooden or painted steps
  • A shelf or small table beside the door to set things down
  • A clear, even path from the car to the door, with no hose, mat edge, or planter to step around
  • Threshold heights reduced or ramped where the change is more than a half inch

Bathroom

This is the room where the most changes are usually needed, and the one where a product bought for the wrong reason is most common.

  • Grab bars at the toilet and in the shower or tub, anchored into studs or solid blocking. A bar that pulls out of drywall is worse than no bar, because it is trusted.
  • Suction-cup bars are for balance, not for bearing weight. Treat them as a towel rail that happens to help, and never as a substitute for a mounted bar.
  • A shower chair or transfer bench sized to the space, with adjustable legs set level
  • A handheld shower head, which is what makes seated bathing workable
  • A raised toilet seat or toilet safety frame if standing up is the hard part
  • Non-slip mats inside and outside the tub, with the outside mat rubber-backed
  • Hot water heater set no higher than 120°F
  • A door that opens outward, or can be unlocked from outside, in case someone needs help

Bedroom

  • Bed height set so feet rest flat on the floor with knees at roughly a right angle, too high and too low both make standing harder
  • A bed rail or bed assist handle for getting in and out, chosen for the bed type and checked for gaps
  • A clear, unobstructed path from the bed to the door and bathroom
  • A phone and a light within reach of the bed
  • Frequently used clothing moved to drawers and rails between hip and shoulder height
  • A sturdy chair for dressing, so nobody is balancing on one foot

Kitchen

  • Everyday dishes, pans, and food moved to between waist and shoulder height
  • A stable step stool with a handrail for anything higher, never a chair
  • Jar openers and adaptive utensils if grip strength has changed
  • Good task lighting over counters and the stove
  • Non-slip mat in front of the sink, flat and taped if it curls
  • An automatic shut-off kettle or appliance if the stove has been left on

Stairs and hallways

  • Handrails on both sides where possible, running the full length and extending past the top and bottom step
  • Every step the same height, uneven risers cause more trips than steep ones
  • Contrasting tape or paint on the edge of the top and bottom step
  • Carpet securely fastened; no loose runner at the top
  • Nothing stored on the stairs, ever
  • Hallways kept clear of furniture that has crept outward over the years

Living areas

  • Chairs with firm seats and arms that extend far enough forward to push up from
  • Seat height that allows standing without a rocking motion; risers or a lift chair if it does not
  • Rugs removed or taped down flat on all edges. Rug edges are the most common tripping point in a home.
  • Extension cords run along walls, never across a walking path
  • A clear path at least two feet wide through the room, wider if a walker is used
  • A side table beside the main chair so nothing has to be carried while standing

Things people forget

  • Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms: tested, with a plan for who changes the batteries, since standing on a chair to do it is exactly what you are trying to avoid.
  • A way to call for help from the floor. A phone on a high shelf is no help after a fall. A wearable alert button or a phone kept in a pocket solves this.
  • Footwear. Backless slippers and loose socks undo a lot of other work. Shoes with a back and a firm sole are part of the checklist.
  • Pets. Small dogs and cats underfoot are a real and commonly overlooked factor.
  • Where the walker lives. If it is not where the person gets up, it will not be used.

Who pays for the changes

Grab bars, ramps, and similar modifications are generally not covered by Medicare, but some state Medicaid waivers, VA programs, and local weatherization or home repair grants do pay for them. Your Area Agency on Aging knows what exists locally, and some run volunteer installation programs. See costs and coverage for what is and is not covered.

When to bring in a professional

An occupational therapist can assess a home and recommend changes specific to the person, and a physician’s referral often makes the visit billable. If there has been a change in walking, balance, or dizziness, that is a conversation for a clinician rather than a shopping list, equipment helps with the environment, not the cause.